The word doupioni a.k.a. douppioni a.k.a. doppione a.k.a. dupioni a.k.a. dupion is reported to come from Italian. Dupioni is sometimes called “shantung”, “pongee” or “raw silk”. Some people say the version “douppioni” only refers to fabric made from synthetic fibers such as polyester.
Doup.pi.o.ni is pronounced “dew-pee-own-ee” with the accent on the third syllable. Few people dare to try and say the word. Listen to this audio file for correct pronunciation.
Turn your audio player REPEAT function OFF.
Like Taffeta, there are many, varying definitions of it which is why we always say: “call it whatever you want but send us a sample.” Dupioni is also refers to the type of yarn used to make this irregular weave “slub” texture fabric with currently so popular with designers of luxury apparel & bridal gowns. Thai weavers of silk dealers s just call it rough, coarse nubby or “not smooth” silk fabric.
The key to the fabric is the use of a coarse, irregular silk yarn. Some people insist that this yarn must be reeled from at least two entangled cocoons. However, any method of spinning that causes small, soft, bumps, lumps, nubs, nodes, knots, burls and thick places in an irregular & uneven yarn will add rough texture to the fabric woven from it. The folks at About.Com say slub is the result of “improper” spinning but Princeton University's WordNet says it can be “by design”.